The DMZ

Today we took a full day tour to the Demilitarized zone (DMZ), which formerly marked the border between North and South Vietnam, when they were separate countries from 1954 to 1975. Ironically the area became one of the most militarized areas during the American War (that's what the locals call it) in the 60s and early 70s. After crossing the Ben Hai river, where the old border was, and taking photos of the border gate, we visited the Vinh Moc tunnels, a labyrinth of underground passages and living quarters, which the locals hand built to hide and protect themselves from the American bombing raids - a remarkable building feat, considering the limited resources available in the area. We then visited several historic war sites, whilst our guide recounted to us what life was like around the DMZ during the American War. The tour culminated at Khe Sanh combat site and where one of the bloodiest battles of the war occurred - its now a very peaceful hillside town near the Laos border, but the museum and the abandoned American military armoury and helicopters on show remind you that a generation ago things were very very different......

Hue - the ancient capital and the Perfume River

We are now in Hue, which is the ancient capital of Vietnam, and near the old border between North and South Vietnam. Yesterday we wandered around the old town, the old citadel ruins, which were the seat of past Vietnamese emperors, whilst today we chartered a dragon boat and cruised down the Perfume River to visit a Pagoda and after transferring to motorbike taxis, two of the Royal Tombs which are located down the river to the south of Hue. Whilst Hue and its surrounds are quite touristy, its an easy place to like - much quieter and more friendly than Hanoi.

Ba Be, Cau Bang and getting close to China

Hmmm more places with strange names............ Following on from our trip to Halong Bay, Tracy and I have been on a four day trip to north east Vietnam. This first of all took in Ba Be lakes - which are three lakes interlinked by waterways. We took a motor canoe through these lakes, through a mountain via a cavern and to a waterfall - saw very few other travellers on the way - very peaceful. From Ba Be we continued in our 4 wheel drive vehicle up to Cau Bang (pronounced Cow Bang!), where they hardly ever see Caucasian tourists, so were fascinated by our visit. Beyond Cau Bang we then went to see the largest waterfall in Vietnam, which is in a beautiful setting right on the Chinese border - China was just across the river (half the waterfall belongs to the Chinese!) - you need a permit to visit as a consequence, and our guide had to promise the local police, that we wouldn't swim or raft across to China! A lot of driving, but an interesting trip.

Halong Bay

After a short flight over the mountains from Vientiane to Hanoi, I met Tracy (who arrived from London) at Hanoi airport. Following a day in Hanoi - which is another bustling, busy Asian city, where you risk being mown down by a scooter every time you step out of your hotel door, we headed out to Halong Bay on a three day boat trip tour. Halong Bay is many people's must do recommendation for Vietnam and we soon discovered why, as we cruised out towards the 3,000 limestone outcrops dotted about this sheltered bay on the edge of the South China Sea. The scenery was once again (for this trip) picturesque and the second day was even better as we got off the junk and into kayaks to explore the shallower waters, coves, beaches and lagoons amongst the limestone cliffs. After that a cool refreshing bathe in the clear green waters off the boat, then a night on Cat Ba Island and some more great Vietnamese food.

See more photos from my trip at

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jreeveitfc/my_photos

Laos - Asia's secret gem

Tomorrow I leave Laos for Vietnam after a wonderful two weeks in the country. It really is Asia's secret gem - so beatiful, so laid back and hassle free and the people are so friendly. Here's some more photos, but first an updated progress map:

Laos Photos

Vientiane - the capital village!

I've made it to Vientiane now, which is the capital of Laos, even though its half the size of Nottingham! Apparently a few years ago it was not much more than the main village in the country. However, these days it is quite a contrast to rural Laos with its wide boulevards, cars and 4 wheel drives (not just tuk tuks and scooters), and even traffic lights. Vientiane even has its own version of the Champs Elysee and Arc De Triomphe - you can tell who were the colonists here even before you get to the Boulangerie. Its an interesting city (or big village) though and its main sight to see is the magnificent golden Pha That Luang - the most important sacred monument in Laos (pictured left).

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng, the book says is a place that you either love or hate. Whilst it is in a beautiful setting, and there's plenty to do there, its also a touristy party town and every cafe is showing constant repeats of Friends (I'm not a fan anyway) to hungover young backpackers stuffing themselves with burger and chips. Yesterday to contrast my tubing experience, I went on a long mountain trek with a couple of lao guides, getting right away from "Friends"...... after climbing up one mountain and down into a rice farming valley, we had a swim at a waterfall which descended into a cave where we had a barbecue lunch, then it was up another "mountain" and down to another cave to swim in and explore. The lao guys then invited me to their house for a dinner of snails, laap (spicy beef salad) and bamboo soup....a contrast to burger and chips infront of Friends! So I kind of quite like Vang Vieng after all.....

Tubing

Vang Vieng is the self proclaimed adventure capital of Laos. Its in a beautiful setting with the River Song winding its way around soaring limestone cliffs. Trekking,Biking, Climbing and Caving can be done here, but the place is best known for Tubing - which involves sitting in a Lorry tyre tube and floating gracefully down the river, stopping for a BeerLao and a go on the rope swings at the bars dotted along the way. Had great fun doing this yesterday!

Bomb Shells and the Plain of Jars

From Luang Prabang I traveled east on a local bus for 8 hours to the town of Phonsovan in the Laotian highlands. Eastern Laos was heavily bombed by the US in the Vietnam war in an attempt to stop the Viet Cong spreading their influence, and there are reminders of this everywhere - you are warned everywhere to stay strictly to footpaths to avoid unexploded bombs and at the guest house I stayed in the fire (its cold in the highlands at night) was made out of a used bomb shell! Other than war fragments, the main sights to see in the area are the surreal Plain of Jars (over three sites), which are collections of large stone jars over 1,500 years. However, no-one really knows what their purpose was?

Off road biking, river kayaking and village people

For the last two days I've been in the hills to the north of Luang Prabang - a world away, even from this quaint town. The first day involved a 30km bike ride up rough tracks passing through several hill / jungle villages where the local children ran out to greet us. The trip was off the beaten tourist track, so most of the kids hadn't seen westerners and were fascinated by us taking digital photos of them, and then being able to view the photos themselves. We also visited a couple of schools on the way and stayed overnight in a remote village, before returning via kayak (plus a bit of swimming - some of the rapids were a bit tricky!); a very serene and peaceful way to cruise back into town (well at least when I was actually in the kayak!)

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a beautiful town in a picturesque setting sat above a bend in the Mekong River. The old town is a designated world heritage site with its French colonial buildings interspersed with palm trees, tropical plants and ornate Laotian Buddhist temples; with French style coffee and baguettes for breakfast to start the day its then an excellent place to spend a few days.....

Slow boat down the Mekong

Ah Laos.... everything is much slower here, like a step back in time. Just arrived in Luang Prabang after an epic slow boat journey down the Mekong from the Thai border. The scenery was amazing - limestone cliffs, forested hills and jungle down to the river, and occasionally a jungle hut village and beach by the Mekong with locals waving to the boat.....such a great way to travel, the hardness of the seats was soon forgotten!

A few photos of Thailand

before I head for Laos tomorrow......

Back to school - Thai Cuisine

I went on a Thai cooking course today, learning how to make Pad Thai, Green Curry, Tom Yam soup and several more fine Thai dishes. The best part of it is that you get to eat all that you cook, and as there was too much for lunch you get a Takeway for dinner too. What I cooked and ate for lunch is to the right......

Hill tribes and jungle curry

Away from the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai, which is a kind of mini-Bangkok tourist trap (you want tuk tuk ride?), I've spent the last 3 days on trekking through jungle to hill tribe villages, eating jungle curry, sitting on the neck of an elephant and rafting downstream in both dinghies and bamboo rafts!

It was a great mini-adventure trip, and good to get out of the city and exercise those limbs, which had spent too long on the southern Thai beaches. Mind you sleeping on the floor in wooden thatched huts in the jungle villages was an experience in itself.....think I need another Thai massage!